SOLO WINTER BACKPACKER TOUR" of Amritsar, Srinagar,Gulmarg,Manali,,Shimla and Chandigarh.This blog is the first part of the tour which is the city of Amritsar.

Having toured most parts of the Globe have always been embarrassed of not having toured some of my own Country's most picturesque hill-stations and city's.I finally decided to tour Amritsar,Kashmir,Manali,Shimla and Chandigarh in the month of March and began by booking my train tickets at "Samarth Services", a small ticketing shop situated inside Worli fish market in Mumbai.All train ticket bookings for all my solo tours have been done at this shop since a visit to the fish-market is one of my normal daily routines in Mumbai.Its easier to book air tickets than train tickets in India and hence the booking for Amritsar scheduled for Friday(1-3-2013) was done on Friday(4-1-2013), two months in advance!Also booked the simultaneous connecting rail tickets for Shimla to Kalka and Chandigarh to Mumbai."Solo-Backpacking Tours" is the ultimate in adventure tourism as you yourself have to plan and research your tour itinerary with a little help from the "INTERNET". Unlike "PACKAGED GROUP TRAVEL TOURS", traveling all by yourself is fun and dangerous but also expensive in certain aspects like accommodation and travel costs. 

Start of the "Solo Backpacker Tour" on Friday(1-3-2013) :- Left my residence and boarded a bus to Dadar.Boarded the local train to Bombay Central station reaching at approx 20.00 hrs and crossed the over-bridge to reach the main National train terminus.The "12903/Golden Temple Mail" arrived on the platform and i boarded coach S1 onto seat 30.The train left the station as scheduled at 2130hrs, the beginning of a marathon two nights and one day journey to Amritsar.As the journey progressed from hours to a day i gradually got acquainted with my co-passengers and got an idea of Amritsar.One of my co-passengers was the heaviest Sikh at weight/height ratio that i came across ,identical to a Japanese sumo wrestler,a transport entrepreneur by profession.The train reached Ludhiana station at approx 0300 hrs on Sunday(3-3-2013) and i quickly changed my attire, having planned a day trip in Amritsar and leaving on the same night to Jammu in Kashmir.

Arrival  at Amritsar after a long tiring train journey from Mumbai.

AMRITSAR(Sunday 3-3-2013) :- The train finally arrived at Amritsar station on a very chill morning at 0620 hrs, the ambient temps being +12/+13*c , very cold temps for a tourist from the warm city of Mumbai.Alighted the train and boarded a cycle-rickshaw outside the station at a rental of Rs 50 , the destination being the "Golden Temple".I had planned to spend the entire day touring Amritsar and boarding the night bus to Jammu.The first thing i did on arriving at the gates of the Golden temple complex was to inquire about the "Baggage room" where tourists and pilgrims were allowed to keep their luggage free of cost.After depositing my backpack kit at the "Baggage Room" i made my way into the narrow street outside the temple complex.Breakfast consisted of a typical Punjabi Aloo paratha with Dahi and chole costing only Rs 50 at "Kitchen Corner", an open-air Dhabba near the Golden Temple complex.The breakfast was akin to a minor lunch by Mumbai's standards, absolutely stomach filling.

Amritsar city on a cold morning.

After breakfast i strolled around the area and made my way towards the "Jallianwala Bagh".As a student of History had read and memorized the Jallianwala Bagh tragedy and its association to the Indian freedom movement since school days .Here i was in person visiting this modern historical site for the first time in my life.I felt i knew the entire layout of this historical garden for it was similar as described in historical textbooks. Entered the garden at approx 0800 hrs through the narrow gate entrance, surprised at the ordinariness of this small historical garden. There were early morning joggers and walkers inside the garden besides tourists, the garden not very crowded .Spotted squirrels and wild doves inside the garden besides the chirping of birds in the trees, a cold pleasant morning in Amritsar.Walked along the circular pathway of the garden viewing the historical edifices preserved of that fateful day on 13th April 1919,Baisakhi day(Punjabi New Year) when a massacre of Indians was committed in this small garden by the ruling British Empire troops under the command of Brigadier General Reginald.Dyer. Viewed the "BULLET HOLE WALLS" in which the bullets fired by the British troops were indentured on the walls.1600 rounds of bullets were fired on approx 20,00 people gathered in this small garden with a narrow alleyway exit.Further down the narrow garden pathway was the infamous well in which numerous Indians jumped in order to avoid the hail of troop bullets, only to perish due to suffocation inside the well.Departed the garden happy that doves, squirrels and nature now lived in peace with humans inside this once infamous garden that triggered the"Independence Movement of India".

Infamous "BULLET MARKS" on the Walls of Jallianwala Bagh.

My next visit was the Harmandir Sahib, universally known as the Golden Temple, the holiest temple in Sikhism.There are 4 doorways to enter the temple from different parts of the city and i had entered the temple from the "Gandhi Gate side(Formerly Hall Gate)" of Amritsar city. A person has to remove their footwear before entering the temple complex, the same deposited at a stall free of charge.A headscarf is essential the same provided free of charge at the entrance and to be returned on departure. At the entrance to the temple complex there is a wash basin for washing one's face and hands and a narrow passageway puddle of water on the ground where legs are dipped for washing. On entering the main temple entrance archway i was amazed at the beauty of the golden temple , its golden dome shimmering in the middle of the lake known as the Sarovar(Holy Lake). 

Inside the "Golden Temple Complex".

                                                                                                                            Toured the temple complex reading the various inscriptions and memorial plaques recording past historical Sikh events.There were also memorial plaques for all Sikh soldiers who died fighting in World Wars 1 & 2. "OPERATION BLUESTAR", the Indian army attack led by General Kuldip Singh Brar in June 1984 on orders of Prime Minister Indira Gandhi against the Sikh rebel separatist insurgency supporters of Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale camped inside the Golden temple is a infamous period of the temples modern history. In the 21st century, Punjabi Sikhs still comprise the backbone of the Indian Military forces, contributing a major share of its population to the Indian Armed forces.After a circular walk round the Golden temple lake finally exited from the same entrance through which i made my entry.Collected my shoes and made my way into the street outside the Golden temple.The Golden temple complex is large and while walking along its periphery from the outside along the road observed the clanging sound of cutlery. A glance through grilled windows revealed people washing utensils and on inquiry with passersby was told that these pilgrims were volunteers offering free social service of cleaning the temples utensils, the temple providing free meals to any visitor or pilgrim and is called the "Free Kitchen".Majority of the cycle-rickshaw riders avail of the free meals provided by the temple as do other poor pilgrims and those interested in availing the free food scheme of the Golden temple.The vicinity was crowded with people and the lanes dusty with vehicle traffic.Cycle rickshaws are a common mode of transport in Amritsar as also auto-rickshaws and taxis, a bustling city with narrow congested alleyways.Inquired about the taxi hire charges for Jammu at a certified "taxi Stand" situated on the main road outside the Golden temple complex. The charges seem moderate at Rs 1800 for an entire taxi which could be shared by 4 people.The greatest monetary disadvantages of solo-backing is expensive travel and hotel charges since as a individual the expenses have to be borne personally while in group tours there are hotel and travel discounts for large tour groups.There were numerous taxi-operators near the taxi stand soliciting customers for the "Wagah Border Cermony" trip. Booked in advance with a local taxi operator for the "Wagah Border" visit which would be conducted in a group,the charges being Rs 100 per individual.I was told to be present outside the "taxi Stand" at 1500 hrs to board the mini-van for the 27 Kms journey to the "Wagah Border".

Cycle Rickshaw driver Mr Mandip.singh.Khalsa in traditional "Khalsa Attire".

After booking a seat for the Wagah border tour walked along the street towards "Gandhi Gate(Hall Gate)' and hired a rickshaw to visit the "Maharajah Ranjit.Singh museum". Inquired about bus operators to Jammu with the rickshaw driver and he guided me to "Chowdhury Travels" situated on the main road opposite "Gandhi Gate(Hall Gate)". Majority of tour bus operators are situated in this locality, the Jammu route bus departing at 2230 hrs in the night.Purchased a ticket for Jammu costing Rs 200 and also had a change of rick-shaw drivers, my driver being a Khalsa Sikh dressed in resplendent Khalsa Sikh attire.Mr Mandip.singh.Khalsa rode me through the streets of Amritsar explaining his philosophy on Sikhism and contemporary politics, a simple and politically conscious individual .Finally reached Maharajah Ranjit Singh museum and after paying rickshaw driver Manjit Singh Rs 50 made my entrance into the museum , the entry charges being Rs 10.The museum was situated inside a huge garden formerly built by Maharajah Ranjit.Singh, the greatest Sikh ruler who was also responsible for coating the upper half of the Golden temple with gold. The Museum consisted of two storeys with different halls that had exhibits and paintings of Maharajah Ranjit.Singh. After a complete tour of the museum made my way back towards the Golden temple, deciding to walk the entire route, the most natural method of sightseeing a city besides the ultimate in testing one's physical fitness.The weather had suddenly turned warm, the Sun shining bright and from +128C temps at dawn it must have been around 28* C at approx 1030 hrs in the morning.Walking along the street and asking for directions spotted "Alexandra School" situated on Queens road, a "Church of North India" school built in 1878.The School was situated in prime Amritsar locality with a huge playground, reminding me of my own Alma mater, Christ Church School in Mumbai also belonging to the "Church of North India".Walking further down the road came across a long building with cycle shops situated on the ground floor, the largest number of cycle shops that i viewed at a single spot in an Indian city. Cycling for common commuting is common in Amritsar, the poor or middle-class mans transport, the costliest cycles being in the Rs 6000 range with high cost designer bikes totally absent in all the shops.Had an interesting conversation with a local cycle shop owner Mr Sushil.Kumar who was surprised at my bachelor status , coaxing me to get married in the future. The talk was hilarious and in the debate i made him realize that akin to films, every marriage is not a success, hence marriage is no guarantee to happiness.As a Solo-backpacker tourist you are never ever alone, always interacting with fellow travelers or interesting conversations with people like cycle shop owner Mr Sushil.Kumar.From the cycle shop i had to walk across the road and cross the railway station footbridge to proceed towards"Gandhi Gate(Hall Gate)", the landmark entrance towards the Golden temple complex.After reaching "Gandhi Gate" made my way towards the Golden temple inquiring about a good Non-vegetarian Dhabha .I always do my internet homework at home before departing on any tour, theoretically knowledgeable about the terrain, sight-seeing and lodging accommodation of the places or city's to be toured. At a shop i produced a list of famous recommended dhabbas to the owner seeking his guidance in selecting the nearest and best eatery.He told me that all the Non-Veg Restaurants on the list were far from the present location, only Vegetarian dhabbas being within the vicinity. He directed me to a small eatery"Chands Dhabba" situated in a narrow by-lane.Ordered a plate of "Bheja Curry/Basmati rice(Rs 205)", excellent lunch and relief for a hard-core non-vegetarian foodie.After a stomach full lunch made my way towards the Golden temple.Spent an hour at the Internet cafe situated at the lodge managed by the Golden temple management near the "Taxi Stand", the internet connectivity and reception being good.

"WAGAH BORDER STADIUM(INDIAN SIDE)".

At 1430 hrs reported at the "Taxi stand", the main rendezvous for tourists seeking to visit "Wagah Border" or rent taxis.Our departure was delayed and finally we were squeezed into an old Maruti van(PB02.U.6588), 8 passengers in total, definitely not cheap at Rs 100/seat.There were two young Chinese male tourists amongst us, the rest of us all Indians .Our mini van finally departed at 1510 hrs and i was hoping we wouldn't miss the retreat march-past and flag lowering ceremony since we had to be inside the stadium by 1630 hrs.Amritsar old city near the Golden temple has narrow roads with slow moving traffic but once outside the city the main highway leading to Wagah was broad and well maintained. En-route passed by Khalsa college,a majestic edifice with a sprawling complex.As we neared Wagah border observed green wheat fields, Punjab being the wheat basket state of India that produced the original "Green Revolution" in India.We finally reached Wagah Border at approx 1610 hrs, an hours road journey from Amritsar city.Our driver instructed us about the timings of the "Wagah border ceremony" and the meeting place for the return journey, akin to a guided tour agenda. As it was a Sunday there was a huge crowd and the parking spaces packed, our driver lucky to get a parking spot.The walk towards the stadium was tedious and i boarded a cycle rickshaw after alighting from the van thinking that it would drop me directly at the stadium entrance.The rickshaw ride at Rs 20 was a mirage, the rickshaw cyclist dropping me just approx 150 meters away at the main army checkpoint for tourists.There was a huge serpentine queue akin to attending a Rock concert and all tourists had to pass through a metal detector with physical frisking.there were two separate queue, one for ladies, the other for men.Mounted B.S.F personnel on horse-back patrolled the queues, maintaining order and discipline. Finally reached the gates of "Wagah Border stadium" absolutely packed to capacity.Squeezed my way towards the small stadium seating accommodation, hoping to get a vantage view of the proceedings.Thanks to my binoculars at least managed to view the proceedings, balancing myself dangerously on a railing that bisected the stadium into the ladies wing. The entire Indian side of the stadium was packed to capacity with no seating accommodation, a few spectators like me perching dangerously at a height on the fence railing.This is the trouble if a person is late to enter the stadium, especially on a public holiday. The entire atmosphere was akin to a carnival atmosphere with young women dancing to the tune of patriotic Hindi film music and large Indian tricolours waving in all directions.from my binoculars got a view of the Pakistani audience behind the border gates.Akin to India, there were large Pakistani flags being waved on the Pakistan side of the Wagah border stadium.Have watched this ceremony numerous times on television and cinema but feeling and observing the electrifying atmosphere in person at the location is another experience. It was like watching a live cricket contest in a stadium between India and Pakistan, such was the passion and patriotic fervor amongst the Indian youth.An India V/s Pakistan Cricket match is unofficial sports war on both sides, similarly the "Beating the Retreat" Wagah border ceremony was a hyped show of military might from both sides, more for the tourists and media, a traditional ceremony amongst two hostile neighbours. In the "beating the retreat" ceremony i observed two young women B.S.F personnel participating, kicking their heels to shoulder height in the traditional salute, breathtaking and amazing.As the stadium was jam packed with me balancing dangerously on a fence decided to make an early exit once the main flag lowering ceremony was over.Made my way out of the stadium at approx 1800 hrs and it was a long walk back to the car park.I was a bit early as the entire ceremony in the stadium was not over, the other tourists arriving a bit later.We departed Wagah border at approx 1815 hrs finally reaching the "Taxi Stand" depot in Amritsar at approx 1930 hrs.I was on the road since leaving Mumbai on Friday(1-3-2013), spending the nights on train having never checked into a hotel, hence haggard and tired.Besides, today would be another night spent on a bus, a total of three nights spent on moving vehicles, the fun and mystique of "Solo Backpacking". After alighting from the van visited the golden temple again, viewing this beautiful temple complex at night, a different view and scenario.There seemed to be a never-ending entry and exit of pilgrims and tourists into the temple complex.After exiting the temple for the last time made my way towards "Gandhi Gate", a long walk from the temple complex.Enroute to "Gandhi Gate" entered "Bharawan Da Dhaba(Est 1912)" a vegetarian restaurant recommended by various travel sites on the internet. It was a normal old World restaurant packed with customers, myself ordering a Lassi. Another Internet recommended vegetarian restaurant"Brothers Dhaba" was located next to "Bharawan Da Dhaba" which indicated a stiff competition between these two famous landmark restaurants of Amritsar city. At least i had the satisfaction of visiting one of the landmark restaurants of Amritsar.Made my way out of the restaurant onto the main straight road leading to "Gandhi Gate".I was surprised at the lack of street lighting on the main road, the narrow road absolutely dark with vehicle traffic floodlights being the only bright lights. I was one of the few pedestrians on this dark and lonely road leading towards "Gandhi Gate". Finally reached Gandhi gate at approx 2100 hrs and crossing the road into "Chowdhury travels".Deposited my luggage at the travel office and made my way into the street searching for a restaurant. Spotted a liquor shop and quenched my thirst with a local beer brand named "Thunderbolt"!Along with the beer had a packet of Pistachio's purchased earlier in the day.  

The Luxury Sleeper  Bus from Amritsar to Jammu.

                                                                                                  Finally boarded the bus at 22 15 hrs at the main market terminal situated a few meters across the road from "Chowdhury Travels"office. It was a dual accommodation bus, sleeper-class passengers as well as seated passengers. The bus finally left the terminus at approx 2230 hrs heading towards the city of Jammu in Kashmir.As for me, it was the third consecutive night spent on a vehicle and not a hotel or house bed .